London was awesome. I would totally go back. I will go back, actually, because there is so much that I didn't have time to do, like visit Wimbledon, and the Portobello Road Market, and walking down Bond and Oxford Streets. And seeing the Magna Carta, the British Library and the Bodleian Library.
But that's for another trip. Let's focus on this trip, shall we? Photos will be included, most or even all taken on my phone, despite the fact that I took a real camera with me. Please forgive the quality, as they may be blurry or grainy.
First of all, the hotel. It was in South Kensington, just up from the Gloucester Road tube station. Clean and comfortable, it was a bargain. The only real knock was that the walls were paper thin...and my neighbors were a voluble Italian family who never closed a door without slamming it. Would I stay there again? Maybe, because the price and convenience of the location would be hard to beat.
Second, the Oyster Card. Oh, Oyster Card, how I love you. Purchased a week's fare for unlimited bus and tube trips in the main tourist zones of town, and it too was a bargain.
Arriving at about dawn, took the Gatwick Express train to Victoria Station. Was fascinated by the houses and architecture; no matter what the age, the houses and buildings looking distinctly English to me. Sheep in the fields. Passed a couple of neighborhoods where the houses had little plots of land separate from their homes and lots, each with a little garden and shed or greenhouse of some sort. Tube to the hotel, where I dropped my bags. After having cocoa and a muffin, spent the day wandering up Cromwell Road toward Knightsbridge, visiting the Natural History Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum. Cool things in each: the Cocoon, which is such a huge contrast, architecturally speaking, with the exterior of the NHM; the interactive expedition planning for plant sample collection within the Cocoon; the Darwin Centre; the ice skating rink outside; the Islamic and Arabic gallery at V&A; the book and printing press display and video at V&A; etc. After they closed and the sun set, I walked up Cromwell Road to where it ran into Brompton and window-shopped. Emporio Armani has a cafe, and serves breakfast, lunch and tea. (Do Armani-wearers eat? Really?) Ogled a gorgeous, copper-burnished range at a high end kitchen supply place, then was appalled by the price (20,000 pounds! on sale at more than half off!). Finished up at Harrod's, where I bought souvenirs for the office (tea, toy cars, etc.) and had a ridiculously expensive and incredibly tasty sundae by the name of Pear Helene. Chatted with two ladies in town from Essex who were treating themselves to the trip as a gift for Christmas. [I now understand the phrase "Essex Girl", which I've heard used derogatorily. Seems pretty judgy to me, but whatever...] Anyhow, by then it was almost 8pm and I'd been awake for ~30 hours, so I staggered back to the hotel and fell asleep immediately.
Thursday. Forgot it was Thanksgiving. No turkey, cranberries or pumpkin pie. Instead, there was Westminster Abbey, Parliament Square, Big Ben, Jubilee Walk, the Tate Britain, King's Cross, the National Portrait Gallery, Leicester Square and Seven Dials. I forgot to tell The Biochemist, but Jeremy Irons narrates the audio guide to the Abbey. Perhaps not so oddly, Westminster Abbey did not feel particularly holy to me; it felt historical and museum-like, but not very religious despite periodic moments of silence and reflection, perhaps because of the crowds of people. Saw the tombs of Elizabeth and Mary, the coronation chair, Poet's Corner, and the memorial for Darwin. From there, walked around Parliament Square, then over Westminster Bridge to the Eye. Four hour wait, no, thanks. So I walked down the Jubilee Walk to Lambeth Bridge, then to the Tate Britain. The Turner Prize nominees were showing, but I didn't look. Instead, I concentrated on slightly older work, especially the Lawrence and Singer Sargent displays.
Went to King's Cross because The Biochemist mentioned Platform 9 3/4, and discovered the lowbrow culinary pleasure of the sausage roll from a vendor there.
Friday. I went to Bath. Loved it and would absolutely go back to see the other stuff I missed. First stop was the Abbey, because I hit it first on the walk up the hill from the train station to the Royal Crescent. The difference between the Bath Abbey and Westminster could not be more striking. Although people worship at Westminster, Bath is clearly a community or neighborhood church. Smaller (but by no means small), its interior architecture is more airy. It was being decorated for Christmas, and stalls were set up outside for the Christmas bazaar.
The church vault or catacombs, dating back to Roman times, were open, too. Walked over Pulteney Bridge, then up Gay Street to the Jane Austen Centre and up to the Circle and the Royal Crescent. Gorgeous. Walking back down, I spent the afternoon in the Roman Baths, which are a marvel of architecture and engineering, even today. Sadly, the Pump Room was closing early for a private function, so I could not have tea there. Instead, I had a bun at Sally Lunn's, and checked out the kitchen museum in the basement. Followed by window shopping up the high street -- the price of real estate is insane! and there's a Lush boutique (smelled great), plus bookshops and more. Had an excellent dinner at The Hole in the Wall, then took a late train back to London.
Saturday. The Circle Line and District Line were closed for the weekend for engineering works, which was extremely inconvenient. So whines the tourist. Anyway, I planned on doing several things, but ended up spending the entire day at the British Museum. And I didn't even see all of it! I did a quick walk through of the Egyptian display and Parthenon display downstairs, then went upstairs to stay. The Staffordshire Hoard! Revolution Paper. And all the other stuff. Plus, there's an exhibit on Moctezuma (paid and ticketed, unlike the rest of the museum, but worth it) that's worth seeing. Stopped for tea at the court cafe, which was excellent. [Have I mentioned that clotted cream is my new favorite thing?] Then back to more displays. My brain was full by the end of the day. Stopped for a little bit of window shopping and souvenir shopping on the way back to the hotel.
Sunday. Once again, planned to do a bunch of stuff but ended up spending the entire day at the Tower. Which makes sense since it is huge and also because it has more than a thousand years of history to learn about. Particularly enjoyed Beauchamp Tower, and the graffiti done by prisoners on the stone walls. Is it sacreligious to say I felt kind of ~meh~ about the jewels? They were pretty and shiny, and I liked learning about the mining and cutting of Cullinan I and II, but otherwise, the settings are rather gaudy, aren't they? Stopped at Piccadilly Circus on the way back to the hotel, walking by a huge Waterstones and Hatchard's, stopping at Fortnum & Mason for (overpriced) tea and gifts.
Monday. Mailed post cards. Went out for tea in the morning, then checked out and headed home.
Theater posters for Les Mis, Phantom, and the coming holidays cracked me up, which I don't think was the intent. But the pathetic image of Cosette and the mask under the holiday banner and wishes just didn't seem that tragic. Also, Damien Lewis is going to be starring in The Misanthrope starting next week, and I so want to see that show despite the fact that Keira Knightley is in it, too -- her wooden acting is painful to watch IMO.
Was entertained by the temporary ice skating rinks set up outside the Tower and the Natural History Museum. It wasn't particularly cold while I was there, but they were put to good use. The weather was good, and rain held off until Sunday, when it poured. Or pissed down, in the vernacular :p
My approachability (or non-threateningness) factor remains in effect: I was asked for directions three times. And twice I could answer helpfully!
There's more, but that's what I remember off the top of my head and without consulting my trip diary.
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